Laos has no sea but has 4000 islands. In the South, near the border with Cambodia, the Mekong widens and divides in multiple channels and waterways, creating an infinity of small islands (hence the name). Some are inhabited, some are not, and three of them have guesthouses and restaurants to receive tourists: Don Khong, Don Khon and Don Det.

Don Khong is the biggest of the three and slightly further north from the others. Don Det and Don Khon are smaller and joined by a bridge. Don Det is known as being more “party island” and Don Khon as being more authentic. Which island would you chose?

From Nakasan to Don Khon

The bus from Champasak dropped me in Nakasan, on the river side, where I should take a motor boat to one of the islands. Two thirds of the people in my bus went to Don Det, and one third to Don Khon. Good, I had chosen the island with less tourists!

It took 20 minutes by boat to reach Don Khon, and that trip reminded me a lot of the backwaters of Kerala, with so many waterways and small islands. Beautiful and peaceful.

Don Khon

Don Khon is quite small, maybe 4 or 5 km long. All the guesthouses and restaurants are concentrated on the north side, next to the bridge to Don Det. The rest of the island is rural Laos. There are wooden houses, cows, rice fields and even jungle in some parts.

I felt from the beginning that life in Laos goes at a slow pace, people are never in a hurry, and this is even more enhanced in the 4000 islands. All houses have an hammock, and I got used to go to the restaurant with a book, since the food took so long to come. 

The islands are an ideal place to take rest. Some guesthouses have hammocks, and the views over the Mekong, specially at sunset, are amazing. I could just have spent days just sitting at the riverside with a book and a fruit shake (which I did), but I also visited the island and took some time to write for the blog (yes, I am too restless!).

The island by bicycle

The best way to move around is by bicycle. With it, I crossed the island and reached the southern point, where there was a small village and the origin of the old railway.

The railway was constructed by the French in order to navigate the Mekong. All around the 4000 islands there are rapids and falls so this part of the river is not navigable. This is why a railway was constructed, from the south point of Don Khon, crossing to Don Det through the bridge, and up to the north of Don Det, where the goods would be transferred again to a boat.

This village is also the departing point of the boat tours to see the irrawaddy dolphins, the only kind of dolphins that live in river water. It is an endangered species and it is estimated that there are around 90 dolphins living in the Mekong, between south Laos and north Cambodia. I did not go to see them because it was expensive, and because they are endangered, so I did not know if it might not be better to leave them alone.

4000 waterfalls

The region is called 4000 islands, but it could be called 4000 waterfalls, since the river is full of rapids and small waterfalls. Some of them can be seen from Don Khon island.

In the east, the Khon Pa Soi waterfalls can be visited for free. These are quite small, but there is a hanging bridge to reach them, and I really enjoy wooden hanging bridges.

In the west, the Li Phi waterfalls are bigger and more impressive, and have an entry fee. It is actually not a big waterfall but rather a lot of small ones. These were quite nice and in the early morning (around 8-9 am) I was alone there.

Bye Bye Laos

4000 islands was my last stop in Laos. I enjoyed the country, the small villages, the rivers, the temples, the islands, but specially, I really liked the slow life and the smiles of Lao people. 

Every time I change country, I feel a small bit of sadness to leave a place I learnt to know and appreciate. And the same time, I feel the excitement and anticipation of entering a new country, where I will see new things and live new adventures.

After Laos, my next destination was Cambodia. How would it be? 

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